Many small home businesses in rural parts of India have carried the traditional know-how of imbuing clothing with Ayurvedic properties across generations. Now, this legacy of medicinally-adept handloom weavers is paving the way for niche communities of today. Just as all trends of the past cycle back around, so has this; however, this particular practice is over 5000 years old.
What is Ayurvastra?
Loosely put, ‘Ayurvastra’ is clothing that heals. The Sanskrit term ‘ayur’ is health, while ‘vastra’ is clothing. Ayurvastra literally weaves Ayurveda healing properties into the very fabric of clothing. Dating back to the Vedic period, the concept originates in the belief that close skin contact with natural fibres and herbs could harmonise the body’s three ‘doshas’ or energies that regulate physical and mental processes. These were historically scripted as Vata (air) regulating communication and movement, Pitta (fire) controlling digestion and transformation and Kapha (earth-water) which links to hydration and structure.
In common scientific terms, Ayurvastra functions on micro-encapsulation technology, which embeds tiny capsules into clothing fabrics that interact with body heat to release chemicals that may possess medicinal value.
Feel-good fashion now also translates to wearable wellness
Before Ayurvedic fashion was re-discovered, fashion was attributed to psychological empowerment, be it the confidence of power suits or the individuality of slogan-embroidered hoodies. In recent years, the feel-good aspect has begun to extend towards a wellness culture. Cue Ayurvastra. Designers are harnessing the power of this ancient knowledge and imbuing clothes with age-old recipes meant to tap into constructs of human well-being and interaction with nature.
‘Ayur-dyed clothing’ for the sake of transparency
Conceptually, Ayurvastra items are not a cure for illnesses, but rather support a holistic regime of Ayurvedic practices for health. In that regard, brands venturing into this space have sought to clarify that their offerings are just ‘ayur-dyed’ and made of natural and organic fibres.
Sandalwood, Cumin seeds, Indian Lilac or Neem, Holy Basil are among some of the herbs, flowers, roots and barks that natural cotton is dyed with. The medicinal effects of these plants can remain on the garments for up to 20 washes. The process is deceptively complex; what seems like a simple dyeing procedure involves multiple procedures to ensure the Ayurvastra is ready-to-wear.
The natural cloth is first sun-bleached or bleached with cow’s urine, which has high medicinal value. Mixtures prepared are chosen based on the treatment of different ailments. It’s not enough to be a fashion designer to create Ayurvastra, the practice of Ayurveda should also be a part of your professional resume.
For example, beige shades are obtained from Indian Lilacs whereas earthy olive greens are obtained from Holy Basil – both plants tend to have antimicrobial and immunity-boosting properties. Similarly, turmeric lends fabrics shades of yellow and gold while simultaneously empowering them with antiseptic, anti-inflammatory characteristics. Turmeric is also a known digestive catalyst.
The wisdom of Ayurveda recipes combined with traditional dyeing knowledge
Ayurvedic concoctions are prepared in dye baths, where the temperature of the fabrics being boiled is controlled. The fabric is dried and softened with natural ingredients like coconut oil. Either darkness or natural gum is used for colour fixation. In ancient practices, chanting was performed over the fabric to positively re-energize it.
Alternately, some regions or communities worked with paste-based dyes, where the ingredients were first ground into a fine powder and then combined with water to form a paste. It was then applied to the fabric and allowed to soak for several hours before being dried and washed.
The impact of a thread on the planet
If fashion is broadly classified into just two categories, the two opposing sides would be naturally made versus synthetically processed. The latter is responsible for microplastic shedding into our waterways and natural ecosystems due to the petrol-based synthetic fibres used in fabric construction. Further, chemical usage in dyes is harmful to the health of garment workers as well as the end-users.
Alternatively, naturally made fashion is low-impact on the environment for the obvious reasons that organic fibres like cotton, linen biodegrade and shed microfibers that decompose. They are naturally dyed using plants, which are often fixed with natural materials as well. Ayurvastra falls into this category—think silk and cotton fabrics dyed with medicinal plants.
Scope of the trend: Ayurvedic healing clothing
Medicinal or healing clothing surfaced as a fashion trend around 2018 with tech-upgraded clothing that could monitor heart rates or silver-threaded woven sportswear for anti-inflammation characteristics. Ayurvastra also found its global footing then and ventured out from the Indian subcontinent.
Emily Bode’s eponymous label introduced indigo-dyed yarn that was infused with medicinal properties, according to the designer. “I was working with a factory in India and was coincidentally introduced to a venture that creates textiles with ‘medicinal’ qualities. The Indigo yarn is hand-dyed also with basil, neem and turmeric. The fabric is aromatic and is said to help with respiratory issues and congestion, and is anti-fungal and anti-diabetic. Some of the fabrics are more heavily scented” she claimed.
In 2019, At Paris Fashion Week, sustainable designer Kit Willow of Australian label KitX showcased a resort collection in collaboration with Indian dye house ‘The Colours of Nature’ based in Tamil Nadu. The designer revealed to Vogue, “They recovered this old recipe book of dying; our beige is from jackfruit, yellow is from marigold, and our red is from a plant called Rubia Cordifolia. I love the idea of going back to nature – and using it to create colors with ancient practices is such a beautiful thing.”
Ayurvasta is experiencing a big demand in countries like the UK, Italy, Germany and Saudi Arabia with a market forecast of $2850 by 2025. However, Ayurveda fabrics are being sold more in bedding and towels, with few explorations made in sleepwear and meditation clothes. The underlying belief is that this clothing is more effective when the body is resting or asleep.
At present, Kerala-based Ayurganic, Jaipur-based Ayursatwa and Dubai-based Ayuray are two digitally native Ayurvedic clothing brands that are more popularly known.
FEATURE IMAGE: via Ayurganic | IMAGE DESCRIPTION: Male dressed in off-white Ayurganic pants and shirt seated near a chess board
