The fashion industry is at a crossroads. For decades, we’ve focused on the “people and planet” narrative, while animals—the silent victims—are often left out of the conversation. Emma Hakansson, founder of Collective Fashion Justice, is challenging this oversight by pushing us to rethink the way we treat animals in fashion. In her words, animals are not commodities; they are someone, not something.
In her book Total Ethics Fashion, Emma shines a light on the brutality and exploitation embedded in fashion’s supply chains, particularly around leather and fur. Her call to action is simple but profound: fashion should never come at the cost of cruelty.
THE BRUTAL REALITY
The Call for Change
The fur trade, once synonymous with luxury, is now in decline, with many top brands like Gucci, Prada, and Burberry which already said no to fur. And yet, the industry lingers. Despite a 45% drop in value, the fur market still generates $22 billion annually. But this isn’t just about numbers; it’s about a system that profits from the suffering of mink, foxes, chinchillas, coyotes and many more species. Emma’s journey, along with organizations like World Animal Protection, PETA, and her own, Collective Fashion Justice, is one that seeks to dismantle this deeply ingrained industry.
Debunking the Myths
A common myth that sustains both the leather and fur trades is the notion that these materials are by-products of the meat industry, mere waste if not used for fashion. But as Emma explains, this is far from true. The global leather market was valued at nearly $400 billion in 2020—hardly an insignificant “by-product.” Fur, like leather, is a profitable, standalone industry that directly fuels the exploitation and slaughter of animals. As Emma puts it, by the time leather has been transformed into a bag or jacket, we’ve disassociated it from its origins: it’s skin. In the case of fur, fashion is the primary, and usually only purpose for slaughtering these thinking, feeling animals.
A FUTURE BEYOND CRUELTY
The Ethical Evolution of Fashion
What’s at stake here is more than just fur. It’s about the entire framework through which we view and value the lives of animals. As Emma notes, speciesism—the belief that human life is superior to animal life—has long justified exploitation in the fashion industry. But this mindset is slowly shifting. The Cambridge Declaration on Consciousness (2012) affirms that animals, like humans, are sentient beings capable of experiencing pain, pleasure, and emotions. Recognizing this challenges the fashion industry to evolve beyond the commodification of animal lives.
Facing the Ordeal: Leather’s Hidden Cost
Leather, like fur, hides a dark reality behind polished marketing. As Emma’s research shows, leather is not just an environmental nightmare but a system rife with human and animal exploitation. Workers in tanneries and slaughterhouses, many of whom are marginalized and vulnerable, are forced to endure toxic conditions and unethical labor practices. As with the animals they process, their lives are undervalued and exploited. You can read more stats and facts here > https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin
The story of fur is not just a story about animals; it’s a story about the kind of world we want to create. The future of fashion lies in our collective ability to reject cruelty and embrace compassion. And as we return from this journey, the elixir we bring back is clear: fashion can be a force for good, where ethics and innovation lead the way, and where animals are seen not as commodities, but as fellow beings deserving of respect and care.
The time to ban fur is now. The question is, will we answer the call?
WHAT CAN WE DO ?
Allies Along the Journey
No one walks this path alone. The fight against animal cruelty in fashion has powerful advocates: Collective Fashion Justice, CAFT, and Four Paws. Together, they are pushing for alternatives—innovative, cruelty-free materials that don’t require the exploitation of living beings. Whether it’s plant-based fibers, recycled or upcycled materials, or even lab-grown alternatives, the future of fashion doesn’t need to rely on the suffering of animals.
Taking Action: Your Role in the Movement
Each of us has a role to play in this fight. The most immediate action is clear: stop buying and wearing fur, and consider if you are comfortable with wearing any animal at all. But beyond that, we need to use our voices to pressure brands that still profit from animal cruelty. A quick email or social media post can create a ripple effect, showing these companies that consumers will no longer accept cruelty disguised as luxury.
PS at GREEN IS THE NEW BLACK, we have started to do our parts by signing a petition to end fur during the ASEAN Fashion Weeks. But we can do more !
PPS for more insights regarding the exploitation of animals in the fashion industry, watch SLAY!
FEATURED IMAGE by Darya Sannikova